Main attributes

• Ideal for printing PLA
• Prints with sharp corners or a small first-layer area are less likely to detach.
• Scratch-resistant. Can be used with a metal spatula, however, cosmetic scratches may appear.
• Compatible with most types of filament.
• Little to no surface preparation, (other than cleaning).
• Clean with ~90% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or denatured alcohol.
• Can be cleaned with acetone, but do not overuse it (1-2 times per month).

ABS – You may need to use something like Magigoo to stick ABS to Smooth PEI, Smaller parts/flat parts may stick too well and cause difficultly in part removal.

PC/PETG/PCTG/TPU - Carelessness with the initial layer can lead to PETG/PCTG/TPU bonding to the smooth PEI surface, resulting in surface damage. To avoid such damage, apply hairspray or PVA gluestick or Magigoo before printing PETG/PCTG/TPU on smooth PEI. 

Do:

Degrease the sheet with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 90%+ with fine microfiber cloth

Remove prints after the cooldown

Bend the sheet to remove printed objects when cooled

Must use protective bed adhesion barrier such as Glue Stick with PETG, PC

Don’t:

Use acetone and other similar stronger agents

Remove printed objects before cooldown

Considerations

• Live Z value needs to be readjusted if you switch sheet-type. 
• Some filaments, like PETG, ASA, ABS and PC Blend, TPU may need a protective separation layer, like gluestick applied thinly before printing!
  
• Keep the sheet clean! Any grease will greatly reduce adhesion.

Maintenance

• Clean with ~90% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) or denatured alcohol when cold. Apply on unscented paper towel and rub the sheet down. Do not use anything made for skin! It can contain oils that ruin adhesion! (You don't need to clean between each print, unless you notice filament/dust build up on smooth PEI)
• 1-2 times a month it can be cleaned the same way with acetone if IPA cleaning is not sufficient.
• After extended use (1-2 years) the surface can smooth out further, which affects adhesion. Using high-grit sandpaper (600-1000), the PEI can be revived by light sanding, bring fresh PEI to the surface. The sheet will have a very light texture after this treatment.
• The smooth PEI film on the steel sheet can be replaced in case of extensive damage.

Print don't stick

If your print surface is perfectly clean and all grease has been removed by wiping it with a paper towel soaked in isopropyl alcohol 90% and if the first layer height is set up perfectly, yet your print still does not adhere reliably to the print surface.

Bubble under the PEI

Over time, you might see some small bubbles underneath the PEI. This is nothing serious. These bubbles usually do not affect print quality and will disappear after a few days or weeks. Here are 2 tips that will make these bubbles disappear faster:

1. Swap the side of the steel sheet you were printing on. This will speed up the "recovery" of the PEI surface.
   Bubbles appear around the spot where you print the most (center of the sheet), most often underneath the corners of your printed parts.
2. When slicing the models, vary your placement on the print surface. Don't use just one spot i.e. the center.

Dent/Bubble on smooth PEI

Sometimes, there might be a small dimple or dent in the smooth PEI layer when you first unpack the steel sheet. Don't worry, just flip the sheet over and use the other side. Thanks to the heat of the heatbed, the dent will disappear by itself after some time (about 1-2 days of print time).

Note:

PEI sheets (smooth, textured, etc.) are not covered by warranty as the coatings are designed to diminish over time unless failure has occurred due to a defect in materials or workmanship. Cosmetic damage, including but not limited to scratches, dents, cracks or other cosmetic damage is also not covered by the warranty. Only defective sheets on arrival are covered by warranty. Tiny dots may appear on the PEI-Ultem surface. These can slightly affect the finished print bottom surface. However, they do not impact the printing process, reliability in any way. We do not consider these dots a reason for a warranty claim.

Satin Textured Black Editions

The Satin sheet sits between the smooth and textured variants. Its fine powder-coated surface with a lightly textured matte finish offers an optimal level of adhesion, especially when printing PLA/TPU/PETG materials. It is fully compatible with a wide range of common and less-common filaments, such as Polycarbonate (PC), TPU.

For Bambu Slicer (You can use Smooth PEI or Textured as build type on the satin). We recommend textured PEI print setting temperature for most case, but if you have adhesion issues, try the smooth plate for lower z-offset. 

For ABS/ASA, some blends filament should self release after cool such, for PLA/PETG you may require to flex bed once the bed has cooled or use rounded edge scraper. If you notice edges slight warp, we suggest reading below consideration to adjust your print profile, as different blends of ABS/ASA may apply a role in build adhesion characteristic

If you're switching from Smooth or Textured you will need adjust z offset to suit based on filament.

Main attributes

• Ideal for printing PLA / PETG / TPU(Harder Shorness hardness >98A)(Glue stick or bed adhesive barrier is recommenced for TPU <98A)
• Prints from ASA, PC Blend require a brim / skirt or some bed adhesive
• Lightly textured surface finish
• Print self release once cools down(ABS+/ASA/ABS) or require some flex(PLA/PETG)
• Compatible with most types of filament.
• Little to no surface preparation, (other than cleaning if dust build up).
• Clean with ~90% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or denatured alcohol.

Do:

Degrease the sheet with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) 90%+ with fine microfiber cloth

Remove prints after the cooldown

Bend the sheet to remove printed objects when cooled

Must use protective bed adhesion barrier such as Glue Stick with TPU or extensive printing with PC/PETG or you may notice quicker wear on the build plate. 

Don’t:

Use acetone and other similar stronger agents

Remove printed objects before cooldown

Use any instruments (sharp spatula) to remove the printed object, We recommend printing a plastic spatula, like this one

Considerations

• Live Z value needs to be readjusted if you switch sheet-type.
• Not suitable for Voron Tap R8, suitable for Tap with lighter magnet.
• For Bambu, its expected during nozzle cleaning process in non printable area where nozzle scrap the bed, the applied textured will wear, overtime you may find bed mesh point to have visible dent, this should not affect printing apart from visual appearance.
• Small footprint PLA print may require brim
  
• Keep the sheet clean! Any grease will greatly reduce adhesion.
• Applied protective barrier when printing TPU/TPEE
• Some PLA blend stick pretty well, depending on blend it may like bit higher or lower temperature depending on blend, for instance Polymaker Polyterra and our Silk can print at lower temperature, ~40-60c.
• Some ASA/ABS blends may require build adhesive or brim for larger print or lower your first layer printing speed and decrease part cooling when possible.
• If you're printing extensive PC Blends such as PC ABS/PC CF we have found using protective separation layer extend life the build plate.

Printing FAQ

First Layer (Texture/Frosted/Smooth Build Plate)

Ensure you have re-calibrate your z off set if you using Bl Touch/CR touch, Klicky Probe. Please note, improper first layer adjustment can lead to damaged of the build plate surface. It is true the texture require lower nozzle off-set compare to smooth or glass build surfaces but it important not to overdo it. Please see attached example, actual z off set may vary depending on your printer. If you still having issues with print not sticking, please refer to above maintenance/cleaning. For small parts, we recommended printing with brim, as it does make part removable easier. It can also aids is some warp for sharp angle/corners prints.

Example 1 (Texture):

Source: https://blog.prusa3d.com/how-to-print-on-a-powder-coated-sheet_30178/

Example 2 (Texture):

• The lines will not be as visible as on a smooth build surface. 
  • Note: this doesn’t mean they should be invisible.

Bottom View: #3 or #4 is desire, but in end it up to personal preference and you may need adjust z-offset flow depending on filament/colour.  

Source: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

Example 3 (Smooth/Satin)

• You should not have any gaps between the lines like #1 or line are fading #5.
• You should still be able to clearly see the lines at the center. They should not be fading or invisible. 
  • It’s normal for the lines to fade a bit near the edges/corners.
• NOTE: Upon review, somewhere between square #3 and #4 is closer to ideal.

Source: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

There are gaps between the lines (you can see through to the next layer):

Source: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

Remove Protective Layer

Thin Clear Protective Layer, as shown below. 

* Note: Its a thin clear protective film on the applied smooth PEI film. You can either use some alcohol or water to loosen up the plastic. Ensure you're not actually peeling thicker smooth PEI underneath the thin protective film from the build plate. 

Note: in newer batch mid 2024 onwards, there is remove sticker tab to help removal.

Bed Temperature Guide

Temperature Range (Our print surface is majority tested on Polymaker/DREMC filament, we always recommended refer to manufacturer recommending printing temperature/build surface):

Materials Compatible Guide

Note: This only tested with DREMC materials, other filament blends may vary.