DREMC All Metal Hotend Kit for CR-10 / Ender Series

Please Note: This is only applicable to DREMC-STORE All Metal kits/assembled hotends. This product line up is EOL. As spare are not specific, if you need hand with sourcing parts please let support know.

Safety Cautions:

• Be aware when your are heating up your new hotend not to burn yourself on the heater block, nozzle or heater cartridge.
• The All Metal hotend kit is capable of printing up to 400°C but do note your existing may not able hardware component is compatible to print up to these temperature. [Excluding Silicons Sock (Max 280 °C )]
• The firmware modification is a not optional but a mandatory step to ensure your safely. Please refer to firmware section later on this guide.
• The hotend and your printer are your responsibility, we cannot be held responsible for any damages cause by the use, misuse or abuse of our products.

Kit Include:

A. 1x MK8 Nicked Plated Copper Nozzle (0.4mm) (SKU :  BB-N-0.4) Purchase Link

B. 1x MK8 Titanium + Copper All Metal Heat Break (SKU : BB-HBB) Purchase Link

C. 1x DREMC CR10 Styled Heatsink (SKU : BB-HS) Purchase Link

D. 1x Pneumatic Connector (SKU: 4004010037 ) Purchase Link 

E. 2x Heater Retaining Bolt - Only sold with item "G"

F. 1x Thermistors Retaining Bolt - Only sold with item "G" 

G. 1x MK8 Copper Heater Block (SKU : BB-HB-S) Purchase Link

H. 1x DREMC Orange MK8 Silicon Sock (SKU : BB-Sock) Purchase Link

I. 1x Pneumatic Connector Clip (SKU : ) Purchase Link 

J, 1x Hardware Kit Bag (Spanner Wrench 8mm, 2mm allen wrench, 1.5mm allen wrench, Instructions Link (QR Code+URL), DREMC Sticker) (Not imaged above but included in the kit) [Hardware kit can source individual from our tool collection] or most 3D printer should provide 8mm wrench.

[If you are missing any component above, please let customer service know] 

Note: Some item is only available on our eBay store.

Tools Needed

• Adjustable wrench 
• Phillips-Head screwdriver 
• 8mm socket wrench (Torque Wrench 3nm or 2.5nm)
• 8mm spanner wrench (supplied) 
• 10mm spanner wrench 
• 2mm allen wrench (supplied)
• 1.5mm allen wrench (supplied)

Majority of component can be purchased individually, if you wish to source replacement spares or only upgrade one element of your printer hotend. If spare are out stock, in most cases nozzles, silicons socks, Pneumatic connector, heatsink can be source from our website or ebay store by searching generic MK8 for spares. If unsure, feel free to contact us for advise.

Assembly Includes:

A. DREMC Assembled Hotend ( Still under production and assembly validation ) ETA March  (We are sourcing and creating our own cable loom to allow all thermeristors/heater cartridge that can be swapped out at hotend not the whole loom. Documentation will be updated once Assembled goes on sale. The kit would only require installing the new heater cartridge and thermeristors and would not require a heat tightened.  

Compatible Direct Drive Kit for OMG Extruder coming soon as well

Supported Printers (KITS ONLY):

• CR-10 (Will NOT fit CR-10 V2)
• CR-10-S5
• CR-10-S4
• CR-10S
• CR-10 MINI
• CR-20
• CR-20 Pro
• Ender 2
• Ender 3
• Ender 3 V2
• Ender 3 Pro
• Ender 3 Max
• Ender 5
• Ender 5 Plus
• Ender 5 Pro
• Ender 6
• TronXY X5S
• TronXY XY2 Pro
• Tevo Tornado
• Alfawise U20
• Lotmaxx SC-10
• Voxellab Aquila

Supported Printers (Assembled Kit Only):

• Ender 3
• Ender 3 Pro
• Ender 3 V2
• Ender 5
• Ender 5 Pro
• Voxellab Aquila

Require Tools:

• Creality provided Hex Allen Wrench 
• Small Phillip Screw Driver 
• Adjustable Torque Wrench
• Socket Wrench

[If you need any assistance or suggestions please contact us]

Install Guide [Install Hotend Kit] : [Ender 3 Series Specifics] [Skip Hotend Assembly if you have assembled kit]  

Step 1: Unload any filament in the printer, using unload function via screen or manually unloading filament, please perform unloading while hotend is heated according to loaded filament.

Step 2: Turn off machine.

Step 3: Remove Fan Shroud, using M2.5 Allen Wrench

Step 4: Remove PTFE Tube by pressing down on the connector.

Step 5: Remove Existing thermistors and heater cartridge and hotend off carriage.

    Step 5A: Using the M1.5 to loosen heater cartridge and carefully remove from heater block.

    Step 5B: Using a small Phillip drive unscrew thermistors clamp carefully and lightly pull thermistors out. 

    Step 5C: Using M2.5 Allen Wrench remove the two bolt holding hotend in place onto backplate.

Step 6: Assembling the hotend

    Step 6A: Screw 2x heater cartridge retaining screw as shown below. Lightly hand tigtening is ok for now, later during heat tightening we will fully tightened these bolts. 

    Step 6B: Screw the all metal heat break, make sure the assembly to have top of heatbreak flush with the top surface of the Heater Block. 

    Note: Before you move to next step check the below image are in the correct position.

    Step 6C: Screw the nozzle into the heater block, ensures there is a small gap between the nozzle and heat block as shown in above photo.

    Step 6D: Apply Thermal Paste on the long section of the heat break(Copper/Orange Side) only.

    Step 6E: Insert the DREMC Hotside into Heat Sink and using M2 Allen Key to screw in the grub screw until hotend does not fall out. (It will heat tightened later)

    Step 6F: Clean off any excessive thermal paste.

    Step 6G: Screw Pneumatic Connector [Note: Depending on batch this may be already installed onto the cooling block]

Step 7: Reinstall heater cartridge and thermistors

    Step 7A: Insert the heater cartridge and hand tightened the 2 retaining bolts using 1.5mm Allen Wrench

    Step 7B: Secure the thermistror. [Be careful not to overtighten the screw as this can damage delicate wires]

Step 8: Install the hotend assembly back onto the plate. 

Step 9: Turn on the printer and pre-heat hotend to 280°C (Read Part 2 if you have current hotend cannot heat above 260°C) [Do note: if you using larger adjustable wrench you may need to wait until temperature to equalised, you may need to perform a PID if you having issues reaching these higher temperature.]

The hotend is now at 280 degrees celsius. 

Be extremely careful not to  burn your fingers when tightening the 
nozzle and the grub screws 

Step 10: Using a 8mm spanner and adjustable wrench tightening the unit. [You are aiming for 2.5-3N.m of torque here, if you apply too much pressure at this stage you will risk shearing either the Nozzle or HeatBreak. If you are concerned we recommend the use of a torque wrench set to between 2.5-3N.m]*

Note: If the heat break rotate during heat tightened, loosen grub screw on cooling block and adjust only once heater is cooled. Be sure you have already grip heater block and it may drop if you loosen grub screw too much. 

Step 11: Tignten all grub screw on the cooling block.

Step 12: Tignten the heater cartridge retaining bolts.

Step 13: Cool down your printer and shut it off 

Make sure the printer is fully cooled down. Turn off and 
unplug your printer before finishing installation

Step 14: Install the Silicon Socks

Step 15: Reinstall the fan shroud.

Step 16: Calibrate the printer (continue to part 3)

* Our final production pre-assembled hotend are tightened at 3nm but our initial Alpha unit was 2.5 nm (sent to our tester).

Install Guide Part 2: Firmware (Marlin Example)

You will need to set below firmware maximum temperature in your firmware (depending on what printer you have, this should be already enabled). The thermistors is only rated for long period at 285°C and only short period at 300°C we recommended printing below 285°C. This still allow you print increase range of new filament compare to stock 260

Under configurations.h in marlin update the below line to maxtemp to 300. So this allow us to heat up to 285 degrees to perform heat tightening.

#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 300

Install Guide Part 3: Calibration:

Please perform following steps after re-calibration to ensure everything is working properly.

1. Re-Level the bed (You may need to shift your limit switch) or re-calibrate your baby z step for your BL Touch. [Note: The new hotend sit lower compare to the stock hotend in most case]
2. Perform PID calibration on hotend. [Click here to learn more]
3. Calibrate E-Steps [E Step Calibration] for you material.
4. You may need to increase/decrease printing temperature, we recommended a to print a temperature test tower to see which is best suited for your filament or colour. [Click here to learn about temperature tower]
5. In slicer setting reduce retraction amount (2-3.5mm) and set retraction speed to (30-40mm/s) Bowden Setup - Slower for PETG. For Direct Drive mods (0.5-1mm) at 40 mm/s. [NOTE: this is vital to reduce clog of heat-break] [Click here to learn about retraction test].

Note: For any nozzle change, you should ALWAYS perform a heat tightened on the nozzle to ensure nozzle and heat break is installed properly to minimised leaks. For major nozzle crashes causing hotend block to rotate, please re-perform a heat tightened.

Our Recommended Printing Slicer Setting:

Below is just some configuration that works for our test prints. This is only provide as guide, we recommended you run through Install Guide Part 4 for the best results.

Please note, filament may varied from batch to batch even from same manufacturer. Colour also will effect the printing temperature, so it always best to perform a temperature test beforehand for each colour. Different material require calibration of flow/extruder e steps and linear advance.

We predominantly only use Black/Grey, as we mainly print practical parts(PETG) and part is printed on a frosted PEI sheet. (ABS is printed within a enclosure) Below profile is generated on modified Ender 3 Pro with following upgrade (BMG Extruder (Bowden setup), Capricorn Tube, SKR Mini E3 V3.0). Printer has been calibrated beforehand using above guide part 3 in additional to linear advance. We cannot guarantee results as your printer may be modified or calibrated differently compare to our printers.

Retraction setting is for Bowden setup, if you're using direct drive you can reduce the speed and retraction length around 0.5-1.5mm and speed depending on the direct drive setup.